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The Country, the Nation, and the Region in Representations of Portuguese Food and Cuisine

José Manuel Sobral

José Manuel Sobral was Assistant Professor of History at the Universidade de Lisboa where he taught European Medieval History and Portuguese Contemporary History from 1977-1984, and is now Senior Research Fellow at the Instituto de Ciências Sociais, Universidade de Lisboa, where he is currently the Director of the PhD Program in Social Anthropology. Author affiliation details are correct at time of print publication.

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Food Between the Country and the City : Ethnographies of a Changing Global Foodscape

Bloomsbury Academic, 2013

Book chapter


... competition as they claimed their own unique characters. The very first step in the certification process, as we know it today, took place at a conference in Madrid in 1890–1891 (Guy 2012). As Kolleen M. Guy states: “The emerging body of law...

Salt Cod and the Making of a Portuguese National Cuisine

The Emergence of National Food : The Dynamics of Food and Nationalism

Bloomsbury Academic, 2019

Book chapter


... and also among the peasant and urban population (Sobral and Rodrigues, 2013). Cod was so important in the diet of the Portuguese that in 1811 their British ally donated some 290 tons to help the Portuguese cope with the disruptive...